India's booming wine industry contrasts sharply with social disparity

Under the sweltering Indian sun, Varad toils away in the vineyards of Nashik, his brow dripping with sweat as he picks grapes and checks for pests. Upper pressure from his boss was once present, but Varad recalls a concession made years ago - a shift to early mornings and late evenings during the hottest months.

Varad's fluency in English sets him apart from most farmhands in India's wine country. He works for none other than Rajeev Samant, a pioneer of Indian viticulture, on his famed "Sula Vineyard." Here, the essence of modern India is condensed - a society of contrasts, where a burgeoning middle class and high society revel in wine while workers like Varad lay the groundwork, laboring under harsh conditions.

The winery, a 15-minute drive from the bustling city of Nashik, spans over 700 hectares of rolling hills. The ochre-colored, multi-story main building harmoniously blends into the landscape, surrounded by other chic wineries. The locale brings to mind Tuscany, but with English and Maharashtrian voices replacing the usual Italian, and mango trees and coconut palms swaying in place of lemon trees.

The winery's layout tells a tale of social stratification. A spacious parking lot welcomes visitors from across the country, inviting them to linger, shaded seating areas are plentiful, and winding paths guide visitors through the vine rows. Educational signs detail the viticulture process, but entrance controls work subtly and effectively to maintain an exclusive atmosphere - wine remains a luxury for emerging India's middle and upper class.

Varad occasionally catches glimpses of this elite world from afar. In the main building's grand interior, affluent couples and families wander, groups of new-money women and men gather, and they relax, sip wine, and chat. The basement houses a busy tasting room, where patrons savor Riesling or Merlot, take selfies, and brag about their experiences on social media. Drinking wine is seen as a mark of elegance and sophistication in India.

This wine culture is on the rise. Wine bars are popping up, and specialty stores offer a wider variety of wines. However, India lacks a centuries-old winemaking tradition. Alcohol is still banned in several states, and pre-pandemic, the average Indian consumed just 20 milliliters of wine per year compared to 20 liters in Germany.

The Face of Booming Wine Production

Varad stumbled upon Sula somewhat by chance, searching for a stable, well-paying job. He knew Samant's story well - a young man who graduated from Stanford University, fell in love with wine, and returned to India determined to make a difference. Leveraging his family's land and resources, Samant planted the first vineyards in 1996 and launched Sula, delivering the first bottles to the Indian market at the turn of the millennium.

"Nashik's unique location makes it an ideal wine-growing region due to its hot, tropical climate during the day, cool nights, and annual monsoons," Varad explains, ensuring his boss isn't aware of his conversation with the press. To maximize growth, the vines are watered daily.

Life as a vineyard worker in India's near 90 wineries is far from glamorous. Ten to twelve hour workdays are common, with overtime violations often going unchecked. Workers earn anywhere from €160 to €250 per month, a salary that provides some financial security but doesn't afford many luxuries.

"I am a worker, not a wine drinker."

Many workers, like Manne Pentil who runs a metal construction company on the outskirts of Nashik, know first-hand the reality of farm workers. They often labor under poor sanitary conditions or without adequate protection, putting their health at risk. Workers in India's agricultural sector are seldom organized, with union representation being practically non-existent. Varad also claims he has no union backing him, dismissing the idea with a wave of his hand.

Varad has never mingled with the wealthy wine enthusiasts on the Sula terrace. Instead, he relies on his meager salary to fund his children's education, prioritizing their future over immediate gratification. His already limited time with family is further restricted, as he only sees them during early mornings, evenings, and rare days off.

"I'd love to travel to France one day to learn about wine regions there," Varad says with a hopeful smile. "France and wine...you know," he laughs with a glint of longing in his eyes.

Varad's work at Rajeev Samant's Sula Vineyard in Nashik's wine country reflects the contrasts of modern India, where he helps produce wine for the burgeoning middle and upper class while enduring challenging conditions.
The winery's layout signifies social stratification, with impressive facilities for visitors, educational displays, and a controlled entrance, suggesting that wine remains a luxury for India's middle and upper classes.
Varad takes interest in the world of fashion-and-beauty, entertainment, and education-and-self-development, hoping to fund his children's education and one day travel to France to learn about wine regions.
On social media, people gladly share their experiences of sipping Riesling or Merlot at the tasting room in the Sula Vineyard basement, capturing a glamorous aspect of the winemaking industry that often overlooks the laborers like Varad, who toil under the Indian sun for a meager salary.